For years, The Netherlands has had a less-than-flattering reputation when it comes to food. The Dutch consistently get stereotyped as not being interested in food, with many citing Calvinism as being the reason why.
In the country’s defence, it’s not easy to be compared to other cuisines such as the Italian or French ones. On the one hand, there are some legitimately good dishes that are worth trying; on the other hand, I think there is also very good marketing.
However, over the years, something has been quietly changing. For the better. Yesterday, news broke out that seven Dutch restaurants received their very first Michelin star.
Stars and Culinary Glory: Who Are the Recipients?
Bij Sidney, Loenen aan de Vecht — Sidney Heinze
Wild Atelier, Hoog Soeren — Jonathan Zandbergen
Rozewied, Kortgene — Noëmie Haentjens & Ferdy van Rijswijk
Ambrozijn, Valkenburg — Sven Nijenhuis
Nassau, Groningen — Christian de Vries
De Cuijt, Mierlo — Yukyung Lee & Koen van Weert
Le Epifaan, Veeningen — Jarno Eggen
The truly fascinating part is that these establishments are quite diverse from one another. Bij Sidney celebrates classical gastronomy. Rozewied looks towards the surrounding land and waters while incorporating inspiration gathered through travel. De Cuijt cleverly incorporates Korean influences into French cooking, while Wild Atelier reinterprets the Dutch tradition of cooking with game. Meanwhile, Nassau takes almost the opposite approach in embracing visual minimalism on the plate and allowing the product to take centre stage.
It’s also worthy of note that two restaurants added an additional star: Azurite in Delft and SUIS in Schin op Geul.
The Netherlands now has 119 Michelin-starred restaurants: 98 with one star, 20 with two stars, and one with three.
The Dutch Culinary Renaissance and Its Legacy
It would be wrong to say that these recent accolades appeared out of nowhere. Over the years, while The Netherlands has been handling criticisms and harsh stereotypes on its food, a group of chefs has been working hard to prove that serious gastronomy can thrive here.
The first name that comes into mind is Jonnie Boer. Together with Thérèse Boer, he transformed De Librije in Zwolle into an institution of Dutch gastronomy. The core inspiration are the Dutch seasons and its local produce. In line with its philosophy, the restaurant decorates its spaces with artwork that is also available for purchase. A full sensory journey.
Jonnie is credited to have shaped an entire generation of chefs. Also, De Librije has recently managed to keep its three stars and remains the country’s only three-star restaurant.
Another influential figure that shaped the Dutch cuisine scene is Sergio Herman. He took his family’s restaurant, Old Sluis, from one Michelin star in 1995, to three. What I find the most interesting in Sergio’s case is how Zeeland plays an important part. Ingredients from the sea and the landscape around him became part of his culinary identity.
Another important influence is Sidney Schutte, who worked with Jonnie and Thérèse Boer. Known for his contrast gastronomy, he pairs European, Asian and South American flavours. Schutte has earned and maintained two Michelin stars at Restaurant Spectrum, where he was Executive Chef. He is currently working on his upcoming project The Gym; if you are in the Gooi area, check out Rust Wat and Bar Schutte.
Therefore, the latest recipients of their Michelin stars feel less like an isolated success and more like another sign of confidence in Dutch gastronomy.
All Good Things Come to Those who Wait
But now the question might be “How is this all impacting the horeca sector?”
Simple, Michelin restaurants raise expectations around ingredients, wine, bread, coffee, service, presentation, sustainability and hospitality, some of those expectations eventually filter down into the broader restaurant market.
There’s also a talent effect. Young chefs and hospitality professionals train in highly regarded kitchens and venues, move elsewhere and eventually open their own businesses. Sidney Schutte worked for Jonnie Boer and is now trailblazing in his own right.
Lastly, it sets new standards in the hospitality sector. Suddenly there’s an understanding around atmosphere, product quality, presentation, optimising the menu, improved service, and so on.
Congratulations to all establishments.